Monday, September 28, 2015

Butterick 5814: Complete!

Ok, I'm in love. THIS DRESS IS LIKE MY DREAM. The wedding was this Saturday, and I finished the dress Wednesday. Like fully finished, hook and eyes, three narrow hems for outer, interlining and lining, and a waist stay. I usually would leave those kinds of those kinds of things until the the last minute, so progress! 

I am thrilled with how the pattern alterations came out. The bodice fits like a glove, after I fixed some minor problems with the front right drape. There was too much fabric and it was pooling by the waistline and the side seam. I had to take the skirt off and undo the side seam a bit and sew the extra fabric in the seam.

 That was the most stressful part. It was coming out perfectly and then I went to try it on after I put the invisible zipper in and EEK! But with the helping hands of a friend, she was able to pin the excess fabric for me while I was wearing the dress. The problem was solved easily after that. Not sure why it didn't show up in the muslin stage, must be the difference in the drape of the fabric. 

The fabric for this dress is a Liberty of London silk, fully underlined and lined. The bodice is underlined with a drapey rayon. It was the only fabric I found that still let the bodice have the drape it needed. The pleated circle skirt is underlined with a silk faille. It gives it body like a taffeta would but without all that taffeta noise. The dress is fully lined with rayon bemberg in a coordinating blue. 

The skirt is my first official pattern draft! Its a basic circle skirt and then you make the waist bigger so it can be pleated. And of course it has pockets! I will do do another post on this if you guys are interested.

The wedding was really fun, my hubby was an usher in it, and we accidentally matched! His tie was the perfect match to the blue in the fabric. I can't wait for another chance to wear this dress! 

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Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Butterick 5814- Making the Bodice

I'm in the mood for couture, darlings! It has been such a long time since I have made a project, taken my time and done anything really special. I have a wedding coming up this month, and with this Liberty silk from my stash it was the perfect opportunity to make something fabulous.

I bought this fabric from, months ago, when it was on sale, and I used something like an extra 15% off it, so I snatched up four yards. Plus, I used ebates so I got 3% back!  I love hydrangeas, and I thought it was the most dreamy print ever. I was expecting the Liberty tana lawn magic to be translated into silk magic, but it is only a regular silk. It's not especially dreamy like Liberty cotton. Oh well, I'm still crazy for the print. 

I've been searching the internets for the perfect pattern for this fabric, nothing was the right floatyness, or the right style or whatever. This wedding is fast approaching so I decided to muslin the bodice of Butterick 5814, a pattern by Gertie. I like the bodice, but the skirt is not what I was picturing so I have to think of something to do for that. 

I started with the size 18 for the bodice, and just made it just like the pattern, expecting scary results. Woah that baby is low, like REALLY LOW. Not suitable for anytime. But other than that, the fit is ok. The sleeves are a little tight on my giant guns, and my bra straps show in the front. 

The first thing i did was to raise the front pieces so the neckline would be about 3" higher. Then I did a 1" FBA. But I didn't want a bust dart, so I would stick to the original look. My pattern looks a little crazy in the end but I swear it works. 

I cut the silk out backed with a roll of unprinted newspaper. Cutting through the paper and the silk helps it from wiggling all over the place. The silk doesn't have enough body to drape on it's own so I knew I had to add underlining. It was a bit of a debate of what fabric to use. Silk organza was too still, just plain muslin wasn't quite right either and then I remembered about rayon! Fabricland has plain white rayon, which had the perfect amount of body and is something like $7 a yard, score! I hand basted all of the bodice pieces to the rayon pieces. I also stitched twill tape to the neckline pieces, like Gertie demonstrated on her blog

After I was done with all the hand stitching, the actual machine sewing came together quickly. I pinned it to my dressform to have a look. Still have some hand-sewing to do, and then I can move on to the skirt. I've already drafted it, and will explain in another post. 

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Thursday, September 3, 2015

DKNY Vogue 1448

Woah summer has just flown by. I missed the whole month of August on here! Well I've still been sewing, just haven't got a chance to photograph anything. 

So I'm back with something a little crazy. I got this BRIGHT rayon from Fabricland, it was only 8.99 a yard. I scooped it up as soon as it came into the store, that's the benefit of working in a fabric store. I rarely pick out fabric with no plan, so I was flipping through the vogue book for ideas and I saw 1448, which was something a little different for me. Of course my fabric choice would turn it into a Carmen Miranda style dress. 


I made a muslin of the bodice, and obviously I needed to do an FBA. But uh oh there is no dart. I could have added a dart, but I wanted it to look like the original. All the cool kids can go around with no darts, so that's what I wanted to do! I cut and slashed and added a third pleat to accommodate the excess. Now I can be cool with no darts. The only other thing it needed was a little tack to keep the wrap together. 

The bodice is lined, I couldn't find a color that was right for the yellow so I went with white. My go-to lining is Robert Kaufman Savannah. Omg its the lightest softest cotton, and perfect for lining. It's only like 6.99 a yard or something. 

The skirt is the most fun. It is three layers of skirt on the front and the back, all with a narrow hem. I am very thankful for the Bernina narrow hem foot, which I finally mastered. It has these pockets in the front, which don't even fit a phone, so they are kind useless. 

PLEASE NOTE: I found a mistake in the pattern, The front peplum piece 6 should say cut 2 not cut 1. GRRR. I didn't figure that out until I was piecing the skirt together. AND I WAS OUT OF FABRIC. If I didn't have to go to work that day, and knew we had more of the fabric, I would have been in trouble. (I have emailed Vogue about the mistake and they said they are fixing it in future patterns.) 

It was fun to make something a little more complicated than the average dress. It's a fun dress to go out to dinner in, and I wore it a lot on my trip to Italy this summer. 

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Sunday, July 19, 2015

Sallie Jumpsuit

I enjoyed making the Carolyn Pajamas so much that when Closet Case Files came out with the Sallie Jumpsuit/ Maxidress, I was excited to make this as well. I have never really made a maxi dress or a jumpsuit, or worn one for that matter. I am happy to report that this really is like wearing secret pajamas. I feel like I am curled up in my bed, but instead I am out in public with a cocktail in my hand. Sometimes its fun to look ridiculous. 

I chose this rayon knit in a magenta/ peach floral print from Fabricland. Its so soft and very lightweight. And man does it remind me of Mrs. Roper from Three's Company. It was difficult to choose between the jumpsuit and the maxidress, both would look cute in this fabric. but I decided to go for the jumpsuit, for the full 70s look. 

I made a few changes to the pattern before I started. I didn't want that tie in the back, I'm planning on wearing this on a long airplane ride and thought the tie would be annoying at my neck. So I raised the back up 1 inch to prevent it from falling off my shoulders without the tie. I can still get it on and off easily. Then I needed to add some length to the crotch. (bleh I hate that word). I am long in the torso, so I can't really buy a romper/jumpsuit with out getting the dreaded cameltoe. I added two inches, which was a bit excessive, i probably could have used 1.5 (next time). I also took 3 inches off the pant length. 

This is a really quick sew, but I had a few problems. First I made the bodice and I slip it on and the sleeve openings are too tight. All of the sizes have the marks for the opening at the same spot. Next time I will leave a bigger opening for my big guns. Then I had a problem serging the bodice to the pants, my serger was acting up, and it caught the pants in several places. BLEH. I tried taking it out in the worst bits, but this fabric is so light it was just making holes. I had to hand sew some holes closed and then I decided a belt would fix all of my problems. Now you can't really notice, and I think it needed a belt. 

I am taking a trip to Italy next week and I am definitely packing this, along with mostly me mades. It weighs nothing, and I had it shoved in my bag all weekend and then put it on after a beach day and it's not even wrinkled. I think it will be perfect to wear on the airplane, comfy and chic, the only downside is stripping down to go to the bathroom!  

Cheers to going out in secret pajamas!

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Saturday, July 11, 2015

Embroidered Hazel Sundress

I've been saving this embroidered fabric from Mood since October, waiting to make the perfect sundress. It's a linen blend, maybe 100% linen, that was from Marc Jacobs. This is actually the  second version of the same dress. The first version was something I semi drafted from something else, the bodice was too big, and just ended up weird. I had JUST enough fabric left to cut a Colette Patterns Hazel bodice, which I knew would fit.

I made skinny straps that are long enough to tie at the shoulder. I found the perfect shade of rick rack which i put along the top and two rows on the center front piece.  I took these pictures after a lunch out with my husband so my facing is peeking out, my dress is a little wrinkled and the strapless bra is falling down, Whatever, I think it looks better in person. 

And hooray for perfectly matching shoes!

This is the perfect dress to throw on a hot day and look put-together and cute!

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Saturday, July 4, 2015

Plaid Crop Top: Butterick 5895

Happy Independence Day! 

I needed something cute to wear to celebrate, and I've been eyeing up this crinkle cotton plaid at Fabricland for a while so a patriotic crop top was in order! The top is Butterick 5895, one of the Patterns by Gertie. 

I didn't make a muslin for this one, just some paper pattern fitting. The only change I made was to lengthen it about 1.5". Otherwise it would have been obscenely cropped.  The pattern does not have a lengthen or shorten line, so I added the length just under the french darts. Right now it hits just at my natural waist, so it goes perfectly with my Freddie's of Pinewood Jeans! 

The top comes together super quickly, there is no separate collar. It's one piece with the bodice and created with a dart and the facing. The trickiest part is getting the facing in the right place. The directions could have been a little clearer with better pictures. Since I lengthened it I added an extra button, and to make it extra patriotic, alternating red and blue buttons! 

To match up the plaid i was just careful cutting it out and matched up the corresponding notches on the same color stripe. I'm not that confident matching plaid, but it matches on the shoulder seams as well as the back. The side seams aren't matched up because the french seam kind of ruins it. 

This was a super fun make and a perfect addition to my summer wardrobe. To further celebrate the Fourth, I have American flag nail polish and I made some patriotic wreaths! It's gaudy and I love it. Tonight I am heading down to the beach with my family to watch the fireworks! 

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Thursday, June 25, 2015

Summer Outfit with McCalls 6965

Hey there sewing fanatics! I've been meaning to show you this outfit since the end of LAST summer, and I finally got some decent photos to share.  I needed to make an summertime outfit that I could be cool and comfortable, and not all that fancy in. So immediately I wanted to make silk shorts.

Ok, I'm not so good at being super casual in case you hadn't noticed. I actually made this outfit to wear to a racetrack last September, and everyone else was wearing actual casual clothes, like boring khaki shorts, yuck. These pictures were taken on Island Beach State park on the Jersey shore where we planned to do a little hike with the dog but were eaten alive by bugs one minute into our walk. I'm not so sure silk shorts are hiking apparel. 

The top is semi drafted by me, I took a princess seam bodice that the fit was already altered, and drafted a bottom to make a top. It's barely a flared shape. I then went ahead and added three rows of rick rack to it, because everything need rick rack, Duh. The fabric is a quilt weight cotton, one of those reproduction 30s prints from Windham fabrics. I bought the fabrics for the top and bottom at Fabricland. 

The shorts are McCall's 6965, but if you go to the website and look for them they will be under SKIRTS. I assure you this is a shorts pattern. I had to do some lengthening in the crotch region ( I hate that word, and I hate that I have to use it so much, talking about sewing all the time), as well as making the shorts a little longer. I think they are a pretty good length now. There is a little problem when it come to wearing these shorts and riding my bike. This silk goes flying in the air and won't stay down! 
It has a zipper at the center back, I made mine invisible because I hate putting in center zips. I think I will make another pair out of chambray, but would they technically be Jorts? What do you guys wear to be summertime casual when a dress is not really practical? 

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