Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Poppy Moneta

This is actually my fourth Colette Pattern's Moneta dress, but the first one you have actually seen! I've made two winter versions with long sleeves, and a sleeveless that's on display at work for a class I'm teaching this summer. This one is my favorite. The fabric is an Art Gallery knit, the same as I used for my Carolyn Pjs. I've made something with 4 different of their prints now, they are so easy to work with and wash really well. 

I made the size L, which works fine for me. I did have to lengthen the bodice quite a bit, I have a long torso. I got this fabric from Fabric.com, I saw this print and I had to have it. (Plus I got 3% back on it with Ebates!). I ordered a little bit less than what the pattern said I needed, because they only sell in half yard increments. I had so much fabric left over! I was short an 1/8th and I had 7/8th left over.  The fabric is wide enough that you can make two folds facing each other and fit the bodices. Same for the lining. I used the lining fabric for the undercollar, which also saves some fabric. 

The biggest change I made was to omit the seam from the collar. It doesn't need it and it just creates bulk at the shoulder. I did the same thing with the Colette Hawthorn, I hate bulky seams! I overlapped the pattern pieces and made a new all in one collar. 

This is my favorite Moneta yet! So easy to wear, I am tempted to make my 5th! I'm taking a trip to Italy this Summer and this dress is definitely coming with me! 
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Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Mother's Day Myrtle

This Mother's Day my family spent a weekend down the shore. It's been the first time we have all been able to stay in our house since hurricane sandy. My Mom has been working really hard getting everything in order for the house and I wanted to make her something comfortable she could wear around the beach.  We rode our bikes to the bay beach to take these pictures of the gorgeous bay. 

I thought a knit dress would be easy, and little fitting needed since this dress was a surprise. Colette Patterns Myrtle seemed like the perfect thing. The fabric is another Art Gallery Knit, it's my FORTH time making something from these knits. I love them, they wash well, easy to sew, and the prints are very cute. This dress looks straight out of the Boden catalog, which happens to be my Mom's fave. 

I made the straight size M, and the longer skirt version. I'm not 100% happy with the fit. The top is a bit overly draped, overwhelming. And I wasn't expecting the back to be gaping too. 

The dress came together in a few hours of working on it. The only trouble I had were the directions for the waistband elastic part. The drawings were throwing me off, sometimes when directions are too thorough it throws me off.  I omitted the pockets, pockets in a knit just droop down as soon as you put your phone in it, I hate a droopy pocket. 

The biggest change I mad was cutting the back skirt piece on the fold, instead of having a seam there. I can't figure out a reason why there needs to be a seam there. It didn't save any fabric, this knit is 60' wide so maybe it makes a difference for 45". I removed 3/8" seam allowance from the edge and placed it on the fold. 

This is the end of my selfless sewing streak. It started with a shirt for the dog, my brother's shirt, and now this but it's time to get back to sewing for ME. And they better not get used to all this selflessness, lol. 

Happy Mother's day everyone!

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Friday, April 24, 2015

By Hand London: Kim Dress

After the long long winter, I needed to make something that was springy and fun for Easter. I got the Kim dress pattern by By Hand London for Christmas, and it was finally time to make it. 

The fabric is a Cotton + Steel cotton lawn from Fabric.com. It's the fabric I bought and got cash back on with my Ebates, when I wrote about my latest obsession (I'm still obsessed). 

I made a muslin for the bodice, and the fit was fine, with the exception of the length, which I had to add about 2". I'm not entirely happy with the fit even though I made a muslin. The finished product is defiantly different. If I make it again the shoulders have to be taken up, the waist is too big and the sweetheart neckline is just a little too low for me. 

My favorite part of this pattern is the skirt. It very gathered, and I love the detail of the folds at the hem. The skirt was a little too long for me, which I discovered after I made the pleats so I took 1/2" off of the waistline seam. 
The dress went together very easily, but I'm not totally in love. Its more wearable with a cardigan over it, even buttoned up so it looks just like a skirt. I'm feeling a little off my game. I hate sewing ruts. Do you ever feel "Meh" after you finish something? Pin It Now!

Monday, April 13, 2015

Brian's Negroni

 For my brother's birthday I was in the mood to do some selfless sewing.I know shocking, right!  He is always wearing camp style shirts so a Negroni would be the perfect thing. I was hesitant to make a men's shirt because it's easy for it to look a little homemade, but he couldn't believe I really made this shirt, it looked so profesh. Actually this is my first official men's sewing project (pj's don't count).

His measurements were in the size L, and I also stole one of his shirts to compare the size too. I wanted it to still have a slim fit on him. I used the shorter size M length, because that was a smidge longer than his RTW shirt. The fabric is a cotton + steel linen/cotton blend home dec weight, with all the names of the US states.  I've been eyeing this fabric at work (Fabricland) for a while, and finally thought of the perfect project. He loves America, and this is a rather subdued print for him, I thought it was safe for my first official mens project. 

To give the collar more shape, I pinned it around my pressing ham and steamed it to give it shape. This kept it from laying flat, and looking homemade. I trimmed the undercollar about 1/8", so it won't roll over. I then decided to topstitch everything so that wasn't really necessary. 

I used the free download of the alternative pocket, which happened to match up perfectly on the sides if you notice :). The facings were very wide, I compared them to his shirt I stole, and took 1.5" off the width. I also sewed the facings down the front, so they wouldn't flap around. I tried to make the shirt as durable as possible, my brother is notorious for being rough with clothes. I just serged the seams inside, instead of doing flat felled seams, I didn't really read the directions and missed that part. OOPS.  I was too lazy to make the button loop for the top and just sewed an extra buttonhole there. I cut the yoke on the cross grain, so the states would go vertical.

The biggest difference I made was the sleeve length. I cut out, sewed, and hemmed the original short sleeve pattern in, put it on my husband just to see and OMG nerd sleeves! They were about four inches too long.  I cut off the excess and hemmed them to a less nerdy length. 

Well he loved it, and I think it fit him pretty well. Here we are looking like a happy cotton + steel family. (I will blog my dress later this week). Happy Birthday Bri! Pin It Now!

Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Chuck Sweater

I've been knitting again! I started this sweater during new years and finally finished it this past week. It's a top down seamless pullover from Untangling Knots. The directions are clear and well thought out, lots of short row shaping to fit the body. I made the size L, and it fits pretty well. It was nice to work in a worsted weight yarn, usually I pick out a pattern for something with size two needles and it takes an eternity to get anywhere. 

I'm wearing the sweater over one of my favorite makes, my quilt dress. The green is a gorgeous spring color, I have to make some more things to go with it! The yarn is Holiday Yarns Wooly Ewe Worsted, from a local yarn store Knit A Bit. I love Andi's patterns, I've already made the Miette, and I just casted on the Marion, also in a worsted yarn. It's a pink yarn to match my new glasses, Kate Spade Lyssa in a pink sparkle! I'm in love. 
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Sunday, March 8, 2015

Carolyn Pajamas: This Time in a Knit!

I'm back with my second pair of Carolyn Pajamas, fresh off the sewing machine! And I love these ones even more. I was inspired to use a knit, like my favorite pair of pj's from BedHead. They are so soft and combine some of my favorite things. Jammies (obv), flamingos, and America. These pjs are made in the USA, so if you don't feel like making your own I highly recommend them.

I used a knit fabric that I've been ogling at work, it's from Art Gallery Fabrics, cotton knit with a bit of spandex in it. SO SOFT, and perfect for jam jams. I used a piping that kind of looks like a cord, in the marigold color with matching buttons. The piping was easy to put in, not any different than applying it with a woven fabric.  I was planning on adding the cuff to the pants, but they were already the correct length so I just went with it.

 I used the serger to sew my seams, but all the top stitching was sewn with the machine, straight stitch, and a knit needle. I hemmed the pants and the top with a double needle. I also sewed the facings to the fronts, it's like that with my flamingo pjs. I was worried that it might not work in the knit, but it went together super easy. I can see myself making many more pairs of these pjs.

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Thursday, March 5, 2015

I Like You: Carolyn Pajamas

My favorite time of day, is when its FINALLY time to put pajamas on and go to bed. I love love love pajamas. I was so excited when the Carolyn Pajama pattern by Closet Case Files came out. A full set of pjs, that is cut in a modern way. There are plenty of big 4 pattern pjs out there but I've attempted to make them and they are always huge and frumpy. I knew this pattern wouldn't be.

I made these pj bottoms over a year ago, and attempted to make a top to match with a big four pattern. The result was frumptastic and huge and I never finished the top. I bought more of the fabric, the Amy Sedaris for Windham Collection "I Like You" and waited for an appropriate pattern. SO happy with the results.

The directions are straight forward and easy. I made my own gingham piping, using rat tail as the cord. The only adjustment I made was to make the short sleeves bigger for my muscles/ chunk arms. After wearing my pjs for a couple nights I stitched the facing to the shirt. This is how my rtw pj shirts are and it is more comfortable. I love this pattern so much I am spending this snow day making a pair out of knit, and wearing my I like you jammies. Total jammie bliss.  

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