Thursday, September 3, 2015

DKNY Vogue 1448

Woah summer has just flown by. I missed the whole month of August on here! Well I've still been sewing, just haven't got a chance to photograph anything. 

So I'm back with something a little crazy. I got this BRIGHT rayon from Fabricland, it was only 8.99 a yard. I scooped it up as soon as it came into the store, that's the benefit of working in a fabric store. I rarely pick out fabric with no plan, so I was flipping through the vogue book for ideas and I saw 1448, which was something a little different for me. Of course my fabric choice would turn it into a Carmen Miranda style dress. 


I made a muslin of the bodice, and obviously I needed to do an FBA. But uh oh there is no dart. I could have added a dart, but I wanted it to look like the original. All the cool kids can go around with no darts, so that's what I wanted to do! I cut and slashed and added a third pleat to accommodate the excess. Now I can be cool with no darts. The only other thing it needed was a little tack to keep the wrap together. 

The bodice is lined, I couldn't find a color that was right for the yellow so I went with white. My go-to lining is Robert Kaufman Savannah. Omg its the lightest softest cotton, and perfect for lining. It's only like 6.99 a yard or something. 

The skirt is the most fun. It is three layers of skirt on the front and the back, all with a narrow hem. I am very thankful for the Bernina narrow hem foot, which I finally mastered. It has these pockets in the front, which don't even fit a phone, so they are kind useless. 

PLEASE NOTE: I found a mistake in the pattern, The front peplum piece 6 should say cut 2 not cut 1. GRRR. I didn't figure that out until I was piecing the skirt together. AND I WAS OUT OF FABRIC. If I didn't have to go to work that day, and knew we had more of the fabric, I would have been in trouble. (I have emailed Vogue about the mistake and they said they are fixing it in future patterns.) 

It was fun to make something a little more complicated than the average dress. It's a fun dress to go out to dinner in, and I wore it a lot on my trip to Italy this summer. 

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Sunday, July 19, 2015

Sallie Jumpsuit

I enjoyed making the Carolyn Pajamas so much that when Closet Case Files came out with the Sallie Jumpsuit/ Maxidress, I was excited to make this as well. I have never really made a maxi dress or a jumpsuit, or worn one for that matter. I am happy to report that this really is like wearing secret pajamas. I feel like I am curled up in my bed, but instead I am out in public with a cocktail in my hand. Sometimes its fun to look ridiculous. 

I chose this rayon knit in a magenta/ peach floral print from Fabricland. Its so soft and very lightweight. And man does it remind me of Mrs. Roper from Three's Company. It was difficult to choose between the jumpsuit and the maxidress, both would look cute in this fabric. but I decided to go for the jumpsuit, for the full 70s look. 

I made a few changes to the pattern before I started. I didn't want that tie in the back, I'm planning on wearing this on a long airplane ride and thought the tie would be annoying at my neck. So I raised the back up 1 inch to prevent it from falling off my shoulders without the tie. I can still get it on and off easily. Then I needed to add some length to the crotch. (bleh I hate that word). I am long in the torso, so I can't really buy a romper/jumpsuit with out getting the dreaded cameltoe. I added two inches, which was a bit excessive, i probably could have used 1.5 (next time). I also took 3 inches off the pant length. 

This is a really quick sew, but I had a few problems. First I made the bodice and I slip it on and the sleeve openings are too tight. All of the sizes have the marks for the opening at the same spot. Next time I will leave a bigger opening for my big guns. Then I had a problem serging the bodice to the pants, my serger was acting up, and it caught the pants in several places. BLEH. I tried taking it out in the worst bits, but this fabric is so light it was just making holes. I had to hand sew some holes closed and then I decided a belt would fix all of my problems. Now you can't really notice, and I think it needed a belt. 

I am taking a trip to Italy next week and I am definitely packing this, along with mostly me mades. It weighs nothing, and I had it shoved in my bag all weekend and then put it on after a beach day and it's not even wrinkled. I think it will be perfect to wear on the airplane, comfy and chic, the only downside is stripping down to go to the bathroom!  

Cheers to going out in secret pajamas!

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Saturday, July 11, 2015

Embroidered Hazel Sundress

I've been saving this embroidered fabric from Mood since October, waiting to make the perfect sundress. It's a linen blend, maybe 100% linen, that was from Marc Jacobs. This is actually the  second version of the same dress. The first version was something I semi drafted from something else, the bodice was too big, and just ended up weird. I had JUST enough fabric left to cut a Colette Patterns Hazel bodice, which I knew would fit.

I made skinny straps that are long enough to tie at the shoulder. I found the perfect shade of rick rack which i put along the top and two rows on the center front piece.  I took these pictures after a lunch out with my husband so my facing is peeking out, my dress is a little wrinkled and the strapless bra is falling down, Whatever, I think it looks better in person. 

And hooray for perfectly matching shoes!

This is the perfect dress to throw on a hot day and look put-together and cute!

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Saturday, July 4, 2015

Plaid Crop Top: Butterick 5895

Happy Independence Day! 

I needed something cute to wear to celebrate, and I've been eyeing up this crinkle cotton plaid at Fabricland for a while so a patriotic crop top was in order! The top is Butterick 5895, one of the Patterns by Gertie. 

I didn't make a muslin for this one, just some paper pattern fitting. The only change I made was to lengthen it about 1.5". Otherwise it would have been obscenely cropped.  The pattern does not have a lengthen or shorten line, so I added the length just under the french darts. Right now it hits just at my natural waist, so it goes perfectly with my Freddie's of Pinewood Jeans! 

The top comes together super quickly, there is no separate collar. It's one piece with the bodice and created with a dart and the facing. The trickiest part is getting the facing in the right place. The directions could have been a little clearer with better pictures. Since I lengthened it I added an extra button, and to make it extra patriotic, alternating red and blue buttons! 

To match up the plaid i was just careful cutting it out and matched up the corresponding notches on the same color stripe. I'm not that confident matching plaid, but it matches on the shoulder seams as well as the back. The side seams aren't matched up because the french seam kind of ruins it. 

This was a super fun make and a perfect addition to my summer wardrobe. To further celebrate the Fourth, I have American flag nail polish and I made some patriotic wreaths! It's gaudy and I love it. Tonight I am heading down to the beach with my family to watch the fireworks! 

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Thursday, June 25, 2015

Summer Outfit with McCalls 6965

Hey there sewing fanatics! I've been meaning to show you this outfit since the end of LAST summer, and I finally got some decent photos to share.  I needed to make an summertime outfit that I could be cool and comfortable, and not all that fancy in. So immediately I wanted to make silk shorts.

Ok, I'm not so good at being super casual in case you hadn't noticed. I actually made this outfit to wear to a racetrack last September, and everyone else was wearing actual casual clothes, like boring khaki shorts, yuck. These pictures were taken on Island Beach State park on the Jersey shore where we planned to do a little hike with the dog but were eaten alive by bugs one minute into our walk. I'm not so sure silk shorts are hiking apparel. 

The top is semi drafted by me, I took a princess seam bodice that the fit was already altered, and drafted a bottom to make a top. It's barely a flared shape. I then went ahead and added three rows of rick rack to it, because everything need rick rack, Duh. The fabric is a quilt weight cotton, one of those reproduction 30s prints from Windham fabrics. I bought the fabrics for the top and bottom at Fabricland. 

The shorts are McCall's 6965, but if you go to the website and look for them they will be under SKIRTS. I assure you this is a shorts pattern. I had to do some lengthening in the crotch region ( I hate that word, and I hate that I have to use it so much, talking about sewing all the time), as well as making the shorts a little longer. I think they are a pretty good length now. There is a little problem when it come to wearing these shorts and riding my bike. This silk goes flying in the air and won't stay down! 
It has a zipper at the center back, I made mine invisible because I hate putting in center zips. I think I will make another pair out of chambray, but would they technically be Jorts? What do you guys wear to be summertime casual when a dress is not really practical? 

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Friday, June 5, 2015

Fruit Dress: Vintage Simplicity 2507

This dress has all my favorite things in it, rick rack, fruit prints, and spinning ability. So obviously its amazing. I needed a dress for a fashion show for the class I've been teaching since January, Project Fabricland. It's a Project Runway inspired competition for students ages 10-18. They each had to design and sew an outfit inspired by a dessert.  

My class with Sonjia Williams fro Project Runway All Stars

The dress is a vintage pattern, Simplicity 2507, but with a gathered skirt. I was afraid the fruit print was going to look weird with the paneled skirt. Plus vintage patterns are so long and I didn't feel like chopping off a million inches. I had to make the bodice bigger, and do a fba. So it was stupid to even buy the pattern I could have just copied the picture. Whatever. I seem to snatch up any vintage pattern that has an opportunity for rick rack.

The fruit print is a quilt weight cotton, as soon as it came off the UPS truck at work, I knew I had to have it. I love love love a fruit print, but I am very particular about it. I don't like it when they look lifelike, they have to look vintage kitschy. I snatched up four yards for this dress, and ended up needing more. I made the skirt SUPER gathered. Its four panels of the fabric 45" wide. It's excessive, but makes for great twirling. 

This print looks like a picnic, so the gingham rick rack was a must. I also made deep patch pockets, to fit my iphone, and because pockets are a place to put MORE rick rack. I was planning on putting rick rack on the hem, but I stopped myself. So now I have 5 extra yards of black gingham rick rack.

I bodice is a skosh too big, and about a quarter of an inch too long, but I think the skirt is heavy and pulling it down. I also made a big hem, because I love they way it looks, its about 4.5".  If you follow me on Instagram, you have seen my watermelon shoes I bought a few days before this fabric came in, making a match made in heaven! 

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Monday, June 1, 2015

McCall's 6696, Liberty Print

What is it about Liberty fabric that just screams "SHIRTDRESS!!!"  I got this gorgeous Liberty print for Christmas this year (thanks Mom!) and I have been trying to think of the perfect thing to make. The McCall's 6696 shirtdress has been going around the blogosphere and it looks amazing on everyone, I thought I would try it out. 

I had just enough fabric to make the sleeveless version of the fuller skirt. I made a muslin of the bodice, and even with the different cup sizes for this pattern I needed to do a bit of an FBA. Based on some other reviews of this dress I took 1" of gathering away from the centerback. It still poofs a little, but I'm glad it took it out. 

 I also took off some of the shoulder width. Why do sewing patterns think everyone has linebacker shoulders? It makes no sense! Does anyone else find this problem? The buttons are from Fabricland, they match the shade of green perfectly! I used a woven fusible interfacing, which I think maybe was a little bit too stiff, but the collar stands right up! This was my first pattern with a collar stand, so I was a little nervous about that but it was a piece of cake. The only downside to this pattern is all the handsewing. Oi. 

I added some secret details to the inside. Leftover bias tape to the hem, and perfectly matching printed rick rack to the waistband. I only wish there was a place for it on the outside! I took these pictures on an expecially windy day down the shore (I'm from New Jersey, yes we really say that). The Liberty tana lawn is sooooooo fine that I was flashing everybody while walking the dog, any just of the wind sends this skirt flying! Oopsie. So that is my version of the famous  M6696, have you made one too? I was thinking of making a shirt version. 

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